June 21 2014 Surfboards

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So glad to get my babies back the other day. I surfed on the NSP 2x so far and it brought back so many memories of surfing Diamond Head. I felt comfortable with it, like putting on an old pair of jeans. I remembered the way it responded in the water when I’m turning, catching a wave or just hanging out on it. Even sitting in the water as the waves go by is a pleasure….I liken it to a dream. The other day, as I was sitting comfortably in the water watching the waves go by, I looked to my left and watched the sunset over the Ocean. A few minutes later, as I was paddling out, I looked to my left and there was a half rainbow. It made me realize how many times I have taken this place for granted and how lucky I have been to spend as long as I have here. One of my goals is to surf more this summer. Hopefully I can get better and be able to surf the blue board with style ­čÖé

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